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"NO ES FACIL. - NOTHING IS EASY."
A WEEK IN HAVANA

Beginning


I am 10 thousand meters high over the Atlantic Ocean. I cannot see the ocean but the small screen in our cabin shows where our airplane is. Although, after so many hours of flight it wouldn't be difficult to predict where we were.

It is the longest journey ever in my life. Not only geographically, but as a life experience, I'm going through a very long way. My objective is Havana, Cuba!

Why haven’t I chosen elsewhere for such a great experience, for example a European city rather than Havana? I cannot give a definite answer, but for years visiting Cuba has been a dream for me. Is it the travel articles that I read before or the revolution made by Cubans and against all odds their resistance to pressure, or the influence of Cuban friends who I met on the internet years ago or the Cuban music and dance? Because of these and many other reasons that I cannot name, Cuba has always been at the top of my list of destinations to visit.

Now at 10 thousand metres over the Atlantic Ocean, I think whether I could travel a further distance in my life. Perhaps I can, but I feel that from now on any place will become much closer to me as experience. At the end of my journey I have to reconsider it.

18/05/2008 Sunday

Our plane, which had left Paris an hour late, naturally landed to Havana later than I expected, so I had to make some changes in my plans. I felt the warm welcome of the tropics when I left the airplane’s cool cabin and entered the hot and humid environment of the Havana’s Jose Marti International Airport. Since I had already taken the tourist card from Turkey which stands for Cuban visa, I easily passed through the customs. My first task was to struggle through the crowd in the arrivals lounge and taxi drivers on prey and find an exchange office. To have Euros for exchange was the best. Once in Cuba, the U.S. dollar was equal to the peso, and it was possible to spend the U.S. dollar in many places, but since a while Cuba applies high taxes and low exchange rate to the U.S. dollar. Usually the airport’s exchange office applies a lower rate so it is wise to exchange the money enough for the first day. I did so and I requested some changes for the tips.

In Cuba, there are two types of currencies. Peso Convertible (CUC) was devised for the tourists, but used by the Cubans also and it is accepted almost everywhere; and Moneda Nacional (CUP) is used only by Cubans and accepted in very limited places.

As a tourist in Havana, my first happened to me while hiring a taxi. It is possible to negotiate the taxi fares to 15-20 CUC from the regular 25 CUC from airport to city centre. But it was getting late and I was too tired to bargain, so I accepted that price. In fact, before leaving the airport, it might be more profitable to negotiate the fares with the taxi drivers who look for tourist inside. However, those taxis might not be legally operated. Although nothing happens to tourists in such cases but it wouldn’t be nice to start my holiday with a police hold up.By the way, in Havana taxis usually work according to negotiation, it is difficult to open a taximeter even there is one. But an average taxi ride in Havana costs between 3-5 CUC. If a driver asks for high above that (e.g. 10 CUC), he tries to swindle you.

While we were travelling to city centre, gradually the Cuban scenes I recalled from films and magazines began to appear in front of my eyes. Time has stopped in 1950s. Old American cars, ornate and monumental, yet neglected colonial buildings, crowded buses, father-mother-child on a motorbike or people travelling on the back of a pickup, and salsa music on the radio accompanying to all that… Havana was welcoming me with the exact atmosphere that I was expecting.

Havana’s familiar welcome lasted until I arrived at Hotel Telegrafo in the city centre, But there was a surprise awaiting me at this hotel where I would spend
my first 3 nights in the city.

I entered the hotel and despite my anxiety, I tried to look calm. With my broken Spanish, I told my name, nationality and that I had a reservation to the receptionist. The female receptionist requested my reservation form, and I replied "Sure" with confidence. I started digging in my bag, but unfortunately I wouldn’t be able to find the forms. That moment I realized that I had forgotten them in Istanbul. I was trying to convince the receptionist while I was looking every corner of my bag, but she was telling indifferently that I didn’t have a record and hotel was full, so nothing could be done. Fortunately, another lady with a friendlier smile arrived and found my name in the registry. But she also repeated that there was no vacancy and she had to transfer me to another hotel for a night. We agreed on not paying the taxi fees and any difference for accommodation, I headed to Hotel Santa Isabel where I would spend my first night in Havana. In fact, this case was not a big surprise to me, during my researches I had seen similar incidents had happened in Hotel Telegrafo.



Hotel Santa Isabel, residing at the old city part, was a very nice hotel which was converted from a 18th century colonial-style inn. In fact, it was a better place than Hotel Telegrafo. My room was also comfortable and beautifully decorated. For this reason, I didn’t become sorry to change the hotels. The old porter who carried my luggage into the room had some information about Turkey and asked me whether I smoke cigars or not. Since I didn’t want to go into a cigar shopping yet, I told him no. before leaving, he warned me not to buy cigars sold on the streets.

As soon as I settled in my room, I called Fidel, my man in Havana. Fidel was an officer in Turkish Embassy and very fluent in Turkish. He was committed to help to Turkish tourists. We agreed on meeting next day.


Meanwhile my metabolism was trying to adopt the changing time zones I realized I was hungry and dinner time was passing. I went down and checked the restaurant of the hotel, but I did not see anyone around, including waiters. In general, hotel restaurants in Cuba were not recommended so without bothering anyone, I stepped out of the restaurant to a square with a park in the centre. The bar-cum-restaurant on the corner of the hotel didn’t seem very inviting to me. I walked at the square examining around 360 degrees like a computer game character. Cubans were sitting in the park chatting, it was not crowded around. A sound of music from guitars and maracas was rising in the air. I was caught by the rhythm and walked towards the music. I noticed a restaurant on the corner of the square in which few people were having their dinners. This restaurant was La Mina, which was in my list with proper food and prices. Without hesitation, I entered the restaurant and I had my first dinner in Havana with the company of the familiar Latin songs.

After dinner, to spend some time I walked into the most illuminated street. This long street named Calle Obispo was full of various bars, restaurants and shops. The street, which was normally busy at daytime, was a bit quiet perhaps due to Sunday evening. Accompanied by the sound of music from the bars overflowing onto the street, I joined strolling with other tourists and Cubans. Although it was night, the air was warm enough to make breathing difficult, but sometimes the sky was brightening with a lightning. Her air was as
confusing as Cuba herself. It might rain at any moment since the rainy season was about to start.

I reached to a square where I saw La Floridita that Hemingway frequented and the Capitolio building in the distance, I realized I was passing to the centre from the Old Havana so I decided to return to hotel without going further at the first night. While
I was walking back on the same street, somebody tapped my shoulder. I turned back and saw a beautiful Cuban lady with a flamboyant dress. She was one of the “jineteras” that I had heard. Although I didn’t understand her words, her manners were quiet clear. I said "No, gracias," and she didn’t insist much.

I returned to hotel to throw off my tiredness and to get ready for an intense day of exploring. While I was taking notes of my first impressions on Havana, it had started raining cats and dogs.



Monday 19/05/2008

I frequently woke up at my first night in Havana because of the pressure of journey and geographical change. I was up before 7 in the morning. I had a simple but satisfying breakfast at the hotel and planned my itinerary which covers part of Old Havana until afternoon.

I started my tour from the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum) opposite the hotel. Havana was just beginning the day but the weather was very hot and sultry for May.

Museo de la Ciudad on Plaza de Armas is located in a splendid baroque building of which construction was lasted between 1791 and 1776. Once the Spanish governors’ palace, the building has become the residence of many governors and governments from the colonial period until today. Now, there are many important pieces about the island's history, lifestyle and cultural background are being displayed in the rooms. The Museo de la Ciudad is one of the most important places to visit particularly to witness Cuba's lifestyle before 20th century and the magnificence of the Colonial period.

A female officer was standing in each part of the museum and they were guiding me if they felt like. Some of them were standing up from her chair with boredom to turn on the lights of the room, while others, especially if you look a bit interested, did not hesitate to provide guidance.
Of course, their common expectation was the tip. In the first part of the museum, the sympathetic lady who guided me demanded a tip when she finished, for her relatively good English and detailed explanations I gave a small tip. Generally 1 peso is ideal for tip. They hum and haw for less.


After the museum I walked towards Plaza de la Catedral, that is Cathedral Square. Other tourists like me had begun to appear on the streets.

The Cathedral which names the square, was built by the Jesuits in the second half of the 18th century. The cathedral, which has very beautiful baroque decorations, stands out with two unlike bell towers. It is a piece of luck to see inside since the door is not open all the time. I would be able to peep inside a bit from the door on my last day of my vacation.

Besides the Cathedral, there are mansions of the former Spanish nobles in the square. These mansions, which are among the finest examples of colonial architecture of 18th century, serve as museums or restaurants. The Museo de Arte Colonial (the Colonial Art Museum) opposite the Cathedral is one of them and is located in the oldest buildings of the square.

Artefacts that belong to the life of colonial period are exhibited in Museo de Arte Colonial. Furniture, cutlery and dinner sets, accessories from 17-19th century, items belonging to the colonial architecture, glass works and many other pieces of art can be seen in the mansion's rooms.

When I was visiting the museum, few of the sympathetic officials tried to sell to me the 3 peso banknotes on which Che Guevera's picture was printed. Although it was a souvenir and collection item, I didn’t show much interest, but gradually I developed this impression: in Cuba, it is very difficult to establish an intimate bond with people, even for a moment; everyone who established a contact with you has an expectation 90 per cent.

After this brief museum tour, I stopped by the Wilfredo Lam Art Center, that I've been wondering but it was closed for restoration. Wilfredo Lam, is one of the most important artists of Cuba who depicted Afro-Cuban spirit in his paintings. Missing the chance to see his works I returned to my hotel. Because of changes in the accommodation my initial plans were disrupted, but I learned once again that one should not make detailed plans in places like Cuba. By noon, I bid farewell to the Hotel Santa Isabel and transferred to Hotel Telegrafo.

Fortunately, without a new trouble at Hotel Telegrafo I moved into my room. Moreover, they gave me a very spacious room, which was looking over both Parque Central and Prado, one of the most central streets of Havana. Life in Havana was flowing just under me. Old cars protruding exhaust smokes, egg-shaped Coco-taxis, youngsters, elders, beautiful Cuban girls and chubby ladies swinging their hips, students in uniforms, tourists and jineteros after them… It was a parade of all types of people that belong to Havana in my imagination.

I wasted a lot of time while changing hotels. I stopped dawdling in the room and jumped to the street. To have lunch, I found the restaurant called Los Nardos, which had good critics, a few hundred yards from the hotel. At first glance, quite dim and candle-lit environment made me hesitate, but when I saw the prices on the menu my worries were dissolved. With its rich menu and affordable prices Los Nardos had deserved the praise it received. I had an unexpectedly delicious and romantic lunch by candlelight, accompanied by violin and piano. I began to think that Cuban cuisine was not as poor as told. I hardly finished a full plate of chicken with pineapple, and even I could not eat all of the fried plantains - a kind of fried raw banana. Although the food I ate later in various places wasn’t so delicious as these, but in general portions in the Havana restaurants were satisfactory. Los Nardos was a place where Habaneros also come. Of course, those Habaneros should earn so much that they could eat outside. While this place was affordable for tourists, for the locals eating out is quite a luxury. I didn’t at first understand the young Cubans sitting on rocking sofa at the entrance of the restaurant, but after thinking, I decided that they could be the customers which will be accepted when tourists finished. I think the most privileged group in Cuba is tourists. Despite privileges were given to the Cubans recently, such as staying at hotels, the double standard between tourists and locals were still evident.

After lunch, I began my Centro Habana - Central Havana tour which in fact I had planned to do in the morning. It wasn’t very wise to do it at the burning heat of high noon, I had to use my limited time in the best way. While I was walking in the street to decide on my route, a young Cuban approached me. His excuse was to improve his English but I barely survived. Jinetero zero, Sinan one. At first, he told me that he did not want anything from me but just to speak English, but when he tried to take me to a bar to offer him a mojito I disposed him as gently as I could be. Although he was quite disappointed, when I saw him approaching his friends waiting around the corner, I understood that it wouldn’t end with a single mojito but I might find myself buying drinks to whole bunch. I had swiftly escaped from a classic tourist trap.  However, Havana would make the odds even at dinner and I would get my daily tourist sting.



I passed by the side of Chinatown in Havana, and continued to north on Galiano Street towards the famous coastline Malecon. Old Havana's mostly touristic and relatively sheltered environment left itself to real Havana here. I witnessed the real Havana when I faced almost ruined buildings, locals on daily shopping, peso shops with few items in them, long queues in front of building likely to be government offices, meats, vegetables and fruits sold on open air stalls. Of course, I wasn’t so indifferent to this view as European tourists. However, those meats sold open in that hot weather still made me wonder. I saw many places where meat was  sold this way in Havana.

Teatro America was on my path. I knew that salsa lessons were given there. By the help of few words I know in Spanish, I learned from the officer at the entrance that classes were every day at 1 pm. I was late, but neither the place nor the staff looked to me very friendly. I think we used to think like Westerners in the East and we cannot get rid of the impression of polished places and behaviours.

I continued to walk on the pillared pavements under the art-nouveau and neo-classical style buildings of Centro Habana, and I ended up at Malecon. Havana's coastline and wall on Atlantic Ocean was very quiet in afternoon. Slight breeze blowing from the ocean was not enough to cool. It wasn’t surprising to see people swimming among the rocks along the coast. There wasn’t much a trace of life on the long wall on the side of the road except a few young couples flirting and people idly watching the sea. Apparently, the real charm of Malecon was arousing after sunset.

After photographing few frames of El Morro and San Salvador de la Punta castles, I took the wide Prado Street to return to my hotel. Marti Boulevard was its new name. Socialist government has changed names of many streets but Habaneros were still using old names. From Malecon at north to Capitolio at south, Prado was one of the Havana's largest streets and most pleasant to walk on. The tree-covered pedestrian road in the middle of the boulevard was full of Habaneros hiding from sunshine.

After my walking tour in Centro Habana lasting approximately 2 hours I gave a little break at the hotel and I got ready to meet Fidel, "my man in Havana".

Around 6 pm, we met with Fidel in lobby of the Habana Libre Hotel in the Vedado district, the former Hilton. Because the mobile phones didn’t work in Cuba it had been a little difficult to meet, but eventually we found each other. We talked about an hour with Fidel who used to speak Turkish very fine; I gave him the small presents I brought from Turkey, and he gave me advices about Havana. As he was working at the Turkish Embassy, he had somewhat undertaken the mission of helping Turks who visit Cuba. He helped me a lot for the time I stayed in Havana.

After we separated, I took a taxi to go to Old Havana to have my dinner. However, with great negligence, I evinced my intention to eat to taxi driver. Non-English speaking driver took me to a restaurant near the train station on the edge of Old Havana. Since I did not understand any of the words he was saying and I wouldn’t be able to express myself in Spanish I let it ride. I was in the middle of a classic tourist sting. Traditionally, taxi driver would take me to a restaurant, then would receive a commission from there and that commission would be added to my bill.

Thanks to the driver, he companied me into the restaurant and secured the commission. The waiter had persistently recommended on the lobster which was one of the most expensive food on the menu and claimed that reasonably priced steak did not exist, we finally agreed on fish. Fortunately meal was satisfying and filling yet the bill was costly.
That evening, I ate my most expensive dinner in Havana.

Although it was dark and I was quite far from the centre, to digest food and the bill, I decided to return to my hotel on foot. Havana is one of the safest cities in Latin America. In Cuba, the rate of crime against tourists is very low, though such events like mugging were recently started to be seen. Nevertheless, even at night one can walk safely alone. However, it is wise to take precautions. It is not advised to wear showy jewellery and accessories or leave bags unattended.
Tuesday 20/05/2008

Travel agencies with one of myself today in Havana, a half-day city tour was set. This modern neighborhoods of Havana, Old Havana's major squares and buildings were covered with 3-hour tour. More comprehensive tours of this type do not, but as soon as possible to see Havana's public and to meet new people is ideal.

Outside of my tour and tour guide, had come from Australia there were two young girls. To visit the city center began with the Capitolio building. Capitol building in Washington DC which is almost the same as this building, in 1929, Cuba began to serve as Parliament. Now the Science, Technology and Environment Ministry and the center is being used as a museum. One of the most magnificent buildings in Havana, just outside Capitolio'yu visited.

The modern part of Havana boarding minibuses and Vedado'ya passed. Vedado "forbidden zone" meant. Founded the first colony of Havana, in this region given this name because they prohibit cutting trees. Of course, 20 -century works have survived from this ban together And with the growing city but still in Cuba, Latin America to the environment of the countries most seriously. Art-deco and art-nouveau buildings Vedado'da with modern buildings can be seen in a search. Many luxury hotels are also located in this region.

Our second stop Plaza de la Revolucion (Revolution Square) was. Jose Marti Memorial and on Che Guevera'nın picture and "Hasta la Victoria siempre" text that contain the famous Ministry of Finance building, is located on both sides of this large square. Fidel Castro's long speeches that ring the square, last one million Cubans gathered on May 1. Also around the square with the National Library and National Theater building also has a Ministry of the Armed Forces.

After a short break in the Square photos, Almendares Park with picnic areas Havanalıların've visited. Providing water that once Havana's Almendares River, now highly polluted. This is an extension of pollution in the African religion and common in the Caribbean Santeria religious vow of members of chickens around for a cut of their share had also.

Cuba's largest cemetery, then past the Colon Cemetery, Havana, the richest district Miramar'a reached. This villa is located in the garden of the city, founded by the Americans before the revolution. Now, with the weight of this neighborhood of embassies keeps dwelling.

Our Modern Hotel Nacional in Havana, was the last stop. This monumental structure built in the 1930s, around the world by many famous guests have to.

We passed along the Malecon and Old Havana. This visit occurred in the region continue to have our tour on foot. The first stay in the hotel that looms and books was established, Plaza de Armas, Old Havana's commercial center, which caused the name of the church which is located Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, Havana's oldest square, one of the Plaza Vieja, and also previously visited the Plaza Guided de la Catedral'i I visited.

Meanwhile, converted from an ancient monastery, the first in the lobby of a hotel called Los Frailes mojitomu drank. Our guide here, where Ernest Hemingway as regulars and attracts tourists mojitosuyla mojito done better Bodeguito del Medio'dan said.

Our tour ended, and Plaza de la Catedral'de everyone went their own way. Unfortunately, Australian girls with something to eat I could not convince.
So I went for lunch before I have chosen the La Mina. Tourists in a restaurant filled, again accompanied by live music I had a delicious fish dinner. In Cuba, the fish eat naturally Turkey is different. In general, the fillet is cooked, small fish, not much out there. However, the food business is becoming increasingly salty, he thought I need to find cheaper alternatives.

The rest of the day in the streets of Old Havana tour and spent a few small museum visit. Especially with a noble family's mansion Casa Obrapia, with antique furniture on display was worth seeing.


I went into the evening to the hotel and started to prepare for the big night. That night, nearly 10 years internet Ginet'in my family, I was invited to dinner.

Diez de Octubre in the district of Havana called Segui'ler were sitting. This is far from Old Havana's tourist image, a more normal life is watching people as not was a place that tourists seek. I have seen two or three storeys with a passing taxi buildings, beer-drinking young people gathered in front of grocery stores, castles made of stone in the middle of the street children who play ball reminded me of Istanbul's suburbs.

Gloria and Conrado greeted with great excitement Segue me. The first time I'm a Cuban family's home as guests, I think the first time they had invited a stranger to their homes. So for both sides, but very curious intimate environment in a conversation occurred. I love to take a gift, especially with a Turkish classical delight they found a very genuine. Thanks to the internet connection as a fugitive in Canada, we also find the opportunity to speak with Ginet. Show me the glory catering was unbelievable. Havana, the first time I felt myself at my house.

A meal consisting of examples of traditional Cuban cuisine was established. The ropa vieja is a kind of saute, classical duo of black beans and rice, fried bananas, fruit salad and flan, creme caramel that is ... Mrs. Gloria all cooking skills were exhibited.

Throughout the night, Cuba, Turkey, music and of course we talked politics. Mrs. Gloria is not thrilled by much of course, no longer have a voice in management of young people have come to that time, the revolution begins with great enthusiasm but is not a solution to the problems of people with existing buildings noted. I also experienced similar problems in Turkey and we pass through a similar process we told him about Cuba.

Observed in Cuba until that day, Mrs. da Gloria'ya As I said, what people like us poor, but happy to be reflected in general, nor the revolution until the end of the direction was determined to protect. Those in the middle of the street dancing every minute, constantly had a carnival air in Havana. Everyone was after the work force, to dance and sing those who were doing it for the bacon, the inestimable so many people were idling in the street. Perhaps like us comfort and joy from this case, in fact, be empty was due. No one in the current circumstances we believe will improve the living standards did not. Many people marry a foreigner and salvation or a way to earn money at the door saw abroad. Or mold is still alive, waiting for standards to rise a little bit more. But the U.S. embargo in Cuba because of rapid development is very difficult. Cuba has always received support from the outside have become accustomed to living. Before the Spanish, then the U.S., the Soviet Union after the revolution, but only with the collapse of the Eastern Block of the Cuban revolution is now should really think. Head to the United States holding that although a bit carried, the people's living standards also need a slight upgrade. Young people in the streets to prey on tourists or abroad should be offered different alternatives to migration.

Dinner in the house that Seguilerin, Cuba's see the real me was very useful. I live in the intimate family atmosphere Diez de Octubre'deki evening, as my week in Havana, the best times I have my memories.

Wednesday 21/05/2008

Comes to Cuba since I could not sleep properly. My body could not get used to the time difference. Three nights in four and a half of the morning as I woke up again and again if I do not sleep. Day-long headache and woke up from bed.

Hotel Telegrafo'dan around noon, the rest of my vacation I will stay at Hostal Beltran de Santa was going to be Cruz'a. Immediately prepared to noon inside the Capitolio building and decided to tour the Partagas cigar factory.

Captitolio, which shed light on Cuba's history, a magnificent building.
Steps at the entrance to the museum's Hall of the Lost Statue of the Republic is huge. Statue of a spear in his hand, on the other hand is the shield, the shield at the top of the reliefs depicting the history of Cuba can be seen. In the middle of the hall, where the diamonds (imitation diamonds, the truth of the case been in a bank) is emblematic of 0 km of the island, all settlements are measured at distances start here. The parliament building, the halls of the former president is also still used for various purposes in many halls are, film screenings, public meetings, picture exhibitions, such as a library ... After a little shopping in the museum's store tour for a quick cigar factory Partagas factory in the lead I immediately Capitolio'nun.

Partagas is not a museum, a real factory. 45-minute tours for tourists, but also are organized. Let me mention that the Cuban cigars it on the legs of women is completely wrapped in legend. At least, no longer such an application. Most women workers in the cigar factory, but the hugging process takes place in the machine. Hand movements is almost impossible to keep track of workers, up to 120-150 per day to wrap cigars. That cigar is made of thousands in a day.

Leg when it comes to issues ... Yes, a cigar is placed on top of the leg is a phase. Workers are taking leaves of tobacco by putting their arms, but the legs are on a blanket. Meanwhile, the women saw the men at work here, well I say to myself that there cover.

Learned the history of cigars, he returned to my hotel and I closed my account and Beltran de Santa Cruz'a passed.

Beltran de Santa Cruz, a boutique hotel was built in colonial style. Depending on the hotel chain has Habaguanex, all hotels have been restored according to a particular theme.
Some cigar-themed, some overlap Hemingway'le ... Beltran also a French marquis of the house were the. They gave me when I enter the room, I felt like a sugarcane merchant or Zorro leads a design not met.

After settling into my room, the rest of the day and every evening at El Morro Castle 9am realized everyone I recommend taking the famous Canoñazo ceremony. El Morro Castle or Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro with the long name with the San Carlos de la Cabaña Fortress, located on the shores of the harbor and the other two big castle. Here at the bottom of the sea are accessible via a tube passage.

El Morro at the entrance to the harbor, between the years 1589 and 1610 Havana from the sea in order to protect against future attacks built. 1762'de occupied by the British. 19. century to show sailors the way to a lighthouse attached. Despite my fear of heights I also went to the top of the lighthouse. Sun begins to descend slowly towards the ocean over, while a beautiful coastline scenery of Havana offered.

When you visit El Morro fortress, Havana came up to me and another conversation started. That one probably will still want a tip from me derken, man there is one of the surveillance officers knew at the center.
I was particularly interested to learn Turkish. Turkish flag on my side as I brought as a gift when the badge, and he had me tour the watchtower. I've learned is that children go to school officer and I carry in my bag of gifts I gave my pint-sized. When people go to Cuba to distribute notebooks, pencils, soap, cigarette lighter, is recommended to take things like chocolate. In Cuba, people are suffering some basic need to find items. This is small potatoes to them are happy and really work works. Although no one me, "Allah be pleased with," he did not, but nobody did not refuse a gift.

When finished the visit El Morro Castle, to watch the ceremony Canoñazo passed Fortaleza'ya. It is also to defend the city against attacks from land to the future 18
century, built a huge fortress. Havana from the fortress on the hill all the beautiful legs were under provided. After the revolution here belong to the museum I visited Che who chose him over. And I have witnessed the sun sinking over the ocean. For someone like me, really a magnificent view sunsets were especially affected. The sun slowly sets over the Atlantic Ocean, while the lighthouse with the light began to illuminate the path of seafarers.

Dark when I went to the place to do Canoñazo'nun. In the past every morning and evening in Havana harbor was opened to let off shot gun do. Now, soldiers in traditional dress every morning precisely 9, this ceremony is repeated. Until 15 minutes after the ceremony, the castle returned to my hotel a little wandering.

Thursday 22/05/2008

When approaching the end of my vacation I planned to perform some things.
For example, salsa lessons ... Five days in Havana, although once again get a chance to dance did not find. Including Havana, to be a part of the city and people began to come very difficult to mix between. Due to my personality that I also knew that, but the tourists at stake it was so common that people expect me and they have established interest in all the dialogue started. I was against Havanalılara increasingly paranoid. Indeed, that day my food a "stake" that would affect this situation.

My daily plan and Museum of Fine Arts Museum of Revolution was to visit.
I set out early in the morning. Walking distance to museums in the way, I passed before I was using Obispo Street. This is one of Old Havana's busiest streets. Many shops and government offices on this street. Tourists usually in the early hours of the morning more shopping street in the middle does not look out, waiting queues in front of the building was full Havanalılarla. Pass by a restaurant I head waiter of the classic "Hey amigo, where are you from?" Took the words. Turkey when I was learning, he also had twice the ship passes through the Strait, Istanbul, said many like me and an urge to drink mojito was invited inside. Blah blah did not want to say in the morning, afternoon mojito even though insisted and eventually we settled on something like lemonade. He asked me questions about Istanbul and Turkey. We chat for a short time. When it comes to me to leave my native people inside gave two of the cheap cigars and with all sincerity mojitolara - which is one non-alcoholic - 8 pesos received. (Two days ago three mojito, a lemonade I had paid 6 pesos.) Ate breakfast on top of the pile after I started to be cautious thoroughly. Although this type of small piles of salt taste of Havana, although such increases will be forced if my budget was limited. If that man is at stake is not me that had been eating lunch in a restaurant I had been thinking about it. In Cuba, however, I noticed that people were after a short day's profit.

Fortunately, the rest of the day went very well. First Revolution Museum (Museo de la Revolucion) Havana, Cuba's most important and valued even museum. Former Presidential Palace used as a beautiful building, only Fidel Castro and Che's command of the revolution in the 59th, not the Jose Marti at the end of the 1800s against the Spanish colonial uprising launched 30'lardaki dictatorship and the struggle against the regime of the documents also are on display. Of course the largest and most important part, Fidel, Che and his comrades overthrew the dictator Fulgencio Batista's regime, they are made to document war creates. Only tourists but also with great interest the Cubans had visited a museum here.

Weekdays, morning hours so many Cubans in the museum visit was interesting to me. Especially an elderly tour guide for the intense expression, although they say understand that, in the still of the revolution was an indicator of the fire is lit. Especially with children in the group's visit is interested, perhaps when he describes the events that gave birth to more children were addressed. Perhaps our lesson from the history books Ataturk Revolution, one of the memorized material is recovered, and as much as possible live the revolution better than those we would listen.

Approximately one and a half hours of my visit the Revolution Museum, then to the store that day I passed the second to the museum: the Museum of Fine Arts, part of Cuba (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Collecion Cubano de Arte).

Havana Museum of Fine Arts has two. One of them only cover the art of Cuba, while the other one in the history of Latin American and international art are examples. But most guide books are advised not to miss, especially the Cuban side. I also have time is limited only part I visited Cuba.

The first floor consists of three floors of the museum shop, cafe and other social units have. In the second and third floor starting today all the history of Cuban art are on display.
Cuban art from Europe, of course, brings to intense. Especially 17-19. century between portrait and landscape paintings are a great place. Museum pictures at the same time, the view also sheds light on the history of Cuba. Cane mills, slaves, plantation life and landscape paintings in the Caribbean is being portrayed. Present slowly approaching graphic art, modern painting, abstract painting and examples of cubism takes over. Works natural as the most dominant themes of rebellion and struggle creates. Modern in the picture was very interesting, especially the works of Wilfredo Lam. Self-titled because I can not tour the art center, museum exhibit to see pictures I've contented.

And the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of Revolution, all of the sights in Havana in the list of visitors should always take place. Meanwhile, the Museum of Fine Arts in the cafeteria, I ate my entire trip I had the cheapest lunch. I paid just 3 pesos to sandwiches and lemonade. Obviously, Havana, was run out of money very quickly. 3 there, 5 here, I put myself spending limit derken I approached too. Fortunately, my side there was an extra bit of money. Apparently they would need.

2 meals daily spending (although not luxurious guest a good meal 13-15 CUC), a taxi costs and limitations if the museum entrance, I could have completed about 50 CUC'ye day. But the pint-sized gifts that you go places, memories or forced to pick up something when I tell the waiting staff, then with the tip, even when I meet people from the public funds to the account became really difficult.

Back to the hotel when the morning encounter with the man again, I changed my way not to have counterparts in the O'Reilly Street was detected. Meanwhile in central Havana's streets, although dirty, neglected and even if they are izbe are quite regular. According to the established city grid plan, the streets are often intersect with each other and from one end of the street in and out the other end to one of the Old Havana, can occur. But just in case I need to keep a map. Because sometimes what it planned to shuffle off the street where you will also be the cause. Walk until the end of Old Havana can grab that is there.

I have seen while walking through an art workshop O'Reilly went on. Modern painting, sculpture and photography workshops belonging to an artist who had work done here. Could visit the artist within, and even said I could take pictures. At that time, a young girl coming to my side - were the assistants - to me in English to provide information about the artist and his works began. Visit the artist's studio was, the new study showed. One of the original work and reproductions are not told me I could buy. For the price is expensive, and out of Cuba when a special permit to require that works of art, as well as to corruption concerns in my luggage did not get the picture. But I told him I could take a photo. Meanwhile, the girl from the day visit the museum, from the difficulties of being tourists in Havana, from Turkey, the stakes of even the morning we talked to. This was good, albeit a short chat to me. Alone in a foreign country when the people, food and drink to talk to someone it is vital also. As a result, the photo did not get very cheap, but a good chat, a moral level and having a work of art enikonu what the cost can be measured with that?

That evening I met with Fidel and his wife. I had them promise a meal. Fidel us paladara took a Miramar neighborhood. By special permission from the state of family-run small restaurants are trying to paladar. Normally, 12 people, even though they finds a way into a restaurant business owner big paladarını able. We had such a place we go is interesting that the Lonely Planet guide and the name did not pass. So I was brought very special paladara. To make it even more special and I ordered lobster for the first time in my life - perhaps the last time - I looked to the taste of lobster. Normally, lobster and beef to sell paladarların prohibited, but it's the way it had found. Ben while he and his wife, lobster with my appetite for being a vegetarian seems tasteless to me that they ate one pizza. Lobster is Fidel's really cheap in the market, but said it was sold in restaurants rather exorbitant price. The price of lobster into account rather than coming good. But it did not acquire a taste for the extraordinary. I have eaten at least the world through the eyes of lobster.

After dinner, Fidel's wife's cousin went to sit in the house Vedado'daki. More accurately, I was taken. I can not remember the lady's name, names already in Cuba, lived in very difficult. There was a very different name and write exactly how to pronounce unless I could not understand. For example, the name of the girl in the gallery as Helix knew, but I really do not know it.

Ladies chat while we Fidel in Cuba and talked of living conditions in Turkey. As a result, the two countries is not no easy life was understood. Meanwhile, immigration from Turkey has hosted the grandmother and that a Sephardic roots in Turkey learned.

We wanted to let Fidel night 10. Me farewell before Fidel, Havana's famous ice cream we ate ice cream balls for Coppelia'da one. Fidel night before near the end of the famous Latin jazz club advised me to go La zorra y El Cuervo'ya. Yet to return to the hotel do not come from inside me advice to keep and I went to jazz clubs.

La zorra y El Cuervo, Havana, one of the most respected jazz clubs. The best Latin jazz artists take the stage here. That night, a jazz pianist Valdes and his group had barreled. Do you have a relationship Celebrity Valdes'le Chucho and Bebo, I do not know. An hour and I really listen to quality jazz concerts I've tasted the Daiquiri cocktail. Towards midnight, the electricity cut group stopped, and I gave the last night without much lace.

Friday 23/05/2008

I was struggling to decide what to do today. To visit, to see where I had completed most of. So, we planned a tour of a little tighter would, all I could visit Havana in 4 days. I want to see the museum on my list and one of the Jose Marti Memorial and Revolucion'daki de Plaza de la Müzesi'ydi. Me too, first to go there, then I planned to walk over to the Vedado neighborhood.

I have seen before, from Plaza de la Revolucion'da wasting time, I went directly to the museum.
Museum consists of two main sections. And period documents belonging to the Jose Marti life and exhibited the highest point in Havana Mirador, that monument hill.

To understand the Cuban Jose Marti Revolution the right system to start. Independence movement against colonialism in Cuba, one of the greatest leader Jose Marti. Relatively short period and then tragically ends in his life almost does not do. Letters, lawyers, teachers, painters and social sciences has given many an intellectual work in the branch. Unfortunately, all the descriptions in Spanish for the museum itself did not learn much about. Presentation and documentation in different languages in museums in Cuba is missing a big challenge for tourists. English was the description I saw only a few museums, museum guides did not speak English fluently in no time.

After touring the museum, star-shaped tower 109 meters high in the hills I went.
Havana could be seen from here. Because air is too far from the heat haze, but there's been a little to the tower were not selected out of the city of Havana was a good idea to see how the spring. Flying around the tower, small birds are similar to vultures also were interesting.

Museum After my visit, I started to walk towards Havana University. This sector much more modern image Vedado'nun offered. Per step at people who talk, dirty streets, or was nothing more than for tourists. More work around the people and university students were in power. Me "who the tourists, are doing here?" He looked like.

Lunch slowly warm themselves from a buffet on the way on a cold feeling "refresco", so I wanted to buy soda. I asked the woman to the bench and Spanish, says price figure I thought it was 8.75 CUC. "Hah, all still pile" he, not CUC women, in fact, 85 centavos, which was announced penny. Women laughed with laughter, unless I think I understand was 85 CUC. Away from the buffet, while laughing behind my back was still women.

Conducted at the University of Havana to walk to the entrance I was there. 1728'de established university, moved in 1902 instead of the current. Students meet the entrance stairs is a Alma Mater statue.

When taking pictures next to the entrance of the university from the two students, said I could go inside and voluntary guidance started. Students like me, you see another one of the curious went to her side. At a university tour guide and I have a short. University's museum and the first visit of the teachers have the bust. Book By the way, how difficult it is to read at university, education is free, but books, pens and supplies, such as too costly, he said. Young was right. State education in Cuba is not free but required for training many of their own pockets to the material students are welcome. This student is a big load. In fact, one student at the end of the period, delete the text in the book and a book he had heard the same period. Our small tour at the end but I did not tip more than satisfy the urge many students did not. With the pen tip in a few small-scale contribution to education whether a gift was.

After college I continue walking I gave a break at the Habana Libre hotel. I want to see in this region, little was left. A nearby street art decision to go to the Callejon de Hamel yield. Again I was put into execution. Streets in this area was like a little old Havana. Callejon de Hamel as then I could not find much hope, that time was quite deserted. Approximately 100 meters of a street graffiti on the walls, Cuban-style pictures were drawn. I understand it there were workshops for artists on the street. Is open look at a small workshop like this, but I did not look more than the corresponding. Actual movement and the Rumba Sundays show is away in disappointment when I learned.

A taxi ride from the street, and Casa de la Musica'ya Miramar, I decided to go to House of Music.
Only a few taxi meter that went broke. Driver's car and a beggar plays pester another taxi when I got on. Casa de la Musica also has disappointed me. 5, was beginning the evening dance program, music store that promises much we did not. Wasted an afternoon of demoralisation in the past I returned to my hotel.

Way back in the Plaza de Armas near the gift shop I've been to the market. Here, everything was cheaper and had a share of slightly negotiable. I wish for my gift shopping before coming here I thought. Return to the considerable amount of time approaching, I've shopped at, or even for days I carry the pen in my bag, someone will find things I like soap.

That evening Gran Ballet de Teatro'da I had tickets to the show Camagüey'in. Although the legendary ballerina Alicia Alonso, director of the Ballet Nacional want to see if the program group in Camagüey, Cuba's second most important ballet had a Ballet show.

Havana's Grand Theater, baroque architecture and sculpture, full of decorations and a large front hall with a truly monumental structure. Since it opened in 1839 theaters Enrico Caruso, Anna Pavlova, to many famous guests such as Sarah Bernhardt and still have the world's best ballet groups will be hosting one of the Ballet Nacional.

Young but talented ballerina and ballet, where the modern ballet, classical dance and classical ballet consists of a few games I watched a show curtain. Although occasional fatigue my eyes closed was a pleasant night for me.

Saturday 24/05/2008

Today my last day in Havana. I want to see over Havana almost everywhere when complete, a little out of town and I wanted to open up to nature. One day before the trip to Las Terrazas in the book I had conquered the region.

Las Terrazas, Havana, an agricultural community an hour away. 19. Founded at the beginning of the century coffee plantations in the region, in the 1970s to protect agriculture and ecology has started working. UNESCO biosphere reserve in 1985 as the area under protection has received. Ecologically sustainable development in forestry in the region about protectionism and work is being done. The locals grow their own lives with the products and handicrafts continue.

To the region will take me on the bus when I was quite surprised. Guide told me that the other passengers. Until you come out to most hotels in Havana, If we did not leave Las Terrazas'la anyone interested. I think everyone would prefer to go to the beach on Saturday. If I had enough time to go to the beach and I could set up a tour. Would be interesting to swim in the ocean, but my passion for nature prevailed.

Our journey lasted about an hour or so throughout the book have a chat with Alex. Our route over Turkey's Aegean or Mediterranean landscapes looked like in the way of scenery. Single palm trees and sugar cane fields were the exception. The way a rope tied to tall wooden bars selling fried chicken with ... Although according to which we also potatoes, onion, watermelon, melon Do not sell in the path length?


Our first stop was a gölbaşılı Las Terrazas'taki. Saturday had people come to picnic. And tropical plants everywhere around the green with a vengeance had. Then we visited the remains of an old coffee plantation. In this plantation slaves to work on time, the farm owner's house, coffee drying areas, coffee grinding mills and the cells were slaves. Slaves do not exceed 5-6 square meters in cells stay together 8-10 people were going.

When you visit the farm will play my ear as if they are Turkish words. I hear the divine sounds homesick before I thought. Then visit the coffee grinder when I actually heard someone speak Turkish.

Really an incredible event. Cuba in the village of Turkey had found. Ankara is a professor and his family, like me, had come to visit Havana. Obviously this was a blessing for me. The last one week he and his family, except Ginet'in find an opportunity to chat with anyone for not properly, to find someone I can talk to at the end had me very happy. Contacts for lunch and I would go to the village, but the Los Baños professor and his family to meet his contract over the creeks have a promenade.

According to my guide to explain in the region, the most interesting thing to me several plants and fruits were used in drug production. Here, plants were used in the treatment of cancer. Maybe he has not yet found the treatment of many diseases these drugs were hidden in forests. Cubans themselves about medicine and pharmacy have a justifiable pride. Cuban doctors are serving in many third world countries, as well as the Cubans in biomedical progress are important.

Before dinner, we walk a little village. Of course, our village was not like it '. Komünlerini reminded me of a little hippie. Special attention was the protection of the ecological balance. Even here, even the people living in conditions little better Havana'dakilerden could be observed. In general, their needs were grown with the products. In addition, stifling hot in Havana, where under the influence of the forest itself felt much.

Dining chapter has a very long time. In Havana, the service was really heavy. Programs should be taken into consideration when making this absolutely. Meals on the previous night because I would almost be late for ballet.

Finish a meal as soon as I was looking forward to the Los Baños'a go. Finally we reached Los Baños'a. A small river, into a natural pool of water and a lot of people were trying to cool off. My guide told me if I could enter the river, but even if my jersey into the crowd to enter the water did not come very attractive. Returned to the picnic area Havanalıların this environment, I found too far away from naturalness. Fortunately we were able meet with Turkish friends. Obviously, what the river, nor nature, nor the bikini girls around, Turkey did not keep the place to chat with. After talking for about an hour in the evening to go to the cabaret and broke the contract. Our tour we returned to the city of Los Baños'ta terminate.

I eat dinner at the hotel and after resting for a while, which is one of Havana's most luxurious hotel to go to Cafe Havana Melia Cohiba'daki been set off. We met with friends in the lobby of the hotel.

Havana Cafe, furnished in 1950's weather was a place. Inside the car belonging to that year, furniture, accessories, and even on the ceiling in one plane had grasshopper. Play the music and shows from the late 50s was carrying the air. I show my favorite show was the best probe of the dancers. Many in the order type of Latin dance, colorful costumes and lively choreography to the show. Night 12 and the audience when the show ended up on stage and started dancing. I'm a lady in our small group tried to get in as best I can but my salsa my salsa knowledge and mastery of indigenous peoples in the face of my agility was very simple. Already after a short period of the rhythm of disco music back when we were leaving the venue. That night in Havana I had the most fun night. They take them with me to my Turkish friends also really grateful for. Never such a night alone I could not live.

When I returned to my hotel in Havana head one of the most interesting events I've experienced. Taxi from the square to my hotel I went a little farther. Hours had passed midnight and no one was around much. While walking towards the square from the plump, short woman and the police stopped one step in my way, where I was started to ask. Situation have friends nervous, because normally we stop tourists on the floor of the police to question something like this was impossible. Of tourists to the Cubans made frequent identity checks, while many tourists did not interfere. Women continued to interrogate me, because I travel alone, I am not married or engaged and began to ask. In English and I did not know a bad job as far as I can understand trying to answer questions Spanish. Many say they see "No entiendo - I do not understand" the transition I was at. In fact, I understand what you need ... Obviously that woman to the police was not my intention to act very insightful. T want to marry at the end of Cuban asked. Oh my God! I think my life the first marriage proposal in the middle of the night, a square in Havana, I was receiving. Maybe my hands in the hope of escape, I said I had a girlfriend in Turkey, and finally brought to a punt and women managed to escape. Could that woman was looking for someone to talk to the police problems at night looking for my mouth to understand my intentions were, or had lost my eye, I do not know. I had no intention to learn as much truth.

Sunday 25/05/2008

Now the time has come to leave Havana. My journey through the tension fell. And a tour of Old Havana by collecting my luggage at the end of the morning spent. Separated from the hotel around noon, I went to his house upon the invitation of Fidel. Movement time and we're waiting to chat neighbors had gathered in the garden of mango ate. Fresh mango juice drink, but really had was a delicious fruit. But travel should not eat more than before.

Fidel and his wife at the airport like five hours to say goodbye I set out. Perhaps the last time in a taxi when I looked to the streets of Havana. I went for a holiday when separated places, with a few days inside the covering brevity, sadness and happiness mixed feelings that we still felt it.

After a passport without any problems, Jose Marti Airport, equipped with the flag passed to the waiting room.
I'm waiting for the plane's departure time, another aircraft was bringing new passengers to Havana. Some like me alone, some in groups, others because of the excitement of being read, some worried, some are neglectful ... Let's see what surprises waiting for them to Havana?

End

I think I spent a week in Havana, this journey in my life how big to make a change, I do not know. But I imagine a long time that certain something on my own I found the courage to perform. Now I'm back from a long way. Different in one, now I have different experiences. Maybe I did not restrict my very forcibly, but never do the things I do not believe I can do. As I said the road while, now many much shorter distance for me.

When it comes to Havana ... What a discovery, nor had great disappointments behind. Cuban says, "Nothing is not easy." This is for the Cubans, as well as applies to foreigners. "White man's civilization," at ease and ready to put here yet. But I have a unique sincerity and simplicity. Have been reduced to a basic form of life. Circumstances under which the people living there, you know, to understand and accept them becomes easier. Considered when thrown into the piles of tourists, workers and permanent steps to sell cigars per tip as I understand those who wait longer.

Havana, you can see very different things. Roasted people alive with a hard ... Traces of the revolution and the revolution can not succeed ... And more fun to fight ... You are a stranger and you never in Havana, you will receive. But in fact, Havana, whatever your expectations, you will provide them.